Monday, 20 August 2012

I've seen this dress online.... Can you make it cheaper?

I'm often asked two following two questions: 1. Here is a picture of a dress. Can you copy it? 2. I've found a dress I like in a shop but it is far too expensive. Can you make something similar but cheaper? Well, I'm across the answer to both of those questions is no. I can't compete with mass-produced high street shop garments for the following reasons: Fabric costs: When I buy fabric for a commissioned piece, I buy enough for that one garment. This means I buy it at retail price. The dress you saw in....wherever, was mass produced in it's thousands which means that the factory would have gained huge discounts for buying in 'bulk' volume.  Pattern cutting: When I receive an order, I meet with the customer to discuss their individual requirements. I then take a series of specific body measurements and draft a custom made pattern. The pattern is then turned into a sample garment (also known as a toile) which is fitted to the client to make any small amendments before the final garment is cut. This process can take several days to perfect. When a factory receives a design for a garment, they make one general pattern which is programmed by a computer and graded into the size range required by the company. Modern cutting technology allows hundreds of pieces to be cut at a time. In the time it takes me to create a bespoke pattern, a factory could have cut enough garments stock every Next store in the country.  Sewing: In a factory, every machinist has his/her job to do and is rarely skilled in anything else. One person sews the side seams, another person inserts the zip, another finishes the hem etc. They are paid by the piece and are under huge amounts of pressure to keep the production line moving. Quality is far less important to these people than making sure they reach their quota for the day. I have trained for 13 years in every aspect of the design/production process. I understand the subtle differences between fabrics and the necessary processes to achieve a beautiful finish. I also take tremendous pride in my work and would not allow a sub standard garment to leave my workroom. I practice traditional couture techniques and am always learning and improving my skills. When you pay for a dress to be made by me you are not just paying for some fabric and a pattern, you are paying for my education, skill, talent and devotion to my craft.  Service: When you buy from a high street shop, you are dealing with sales staff who have no input into the creation of your garment. They, for the most part, are there for the money. Many work on commission and with targets to meet, will pretty much tell you what you want to hear to get that sale. When you buy from me, you are a walking, talking advert for my business. I am extremely emotionally connected to each dress I make. They take me a long time to do, from searching for the perfect fabrics to the time it takes to make a garment (averaging  between 12-100 hours). Also, after spending at least 4 or 5 hours getting to know my customers, I also become invested in their happiness. When I make a dress, I make it specifically for you. Not just to make you look good but also to make you feel good wearing it.  Overheads: Chain stores buy in large volumes, they add on huge mark-ups (sometimes up to 1000%) and make massive profits. The top end luxury brand markets report profits in their billions every year. Running a small business costs a lot of money. Rent, insurance, alarms, accountants, PAT testing, sewing machines, tools, advertising.... The list goes depressingly on. These costs as well as the actual cost of making the garment (fabrics, linings, boning, zips, interlining,trims etc) have to be covered before a penny of profit can be made.   Design integrity Firstly, copyright laws exist to protect the designer so it is illegal for me to copy a design. I understand a lot of dressmakers do this as they are unable to create a concept of their own and need to have something to mimic to be successful. As a designer, I have spent years developing my own unique style. This style is the reason many of my customers seek me out. I do not want to cheapen that by diluting my range with other designers creations.  Having a dress made for you should be a wonderful experience from start to finish. It should be a statement of your personal style and a testament to my talent and experience. You should expect the price and the time frame to reflect the work that goes into it. My prices Evening wear: From £350 Bridal wear: From £700 Corsetry: From £150 The aim of this blog is to remove the myth that designers are needlessly overpriced and excessive or that dressmakers can 'run up' a dress in a matter of a few hours for less than you'd pay in a department store. If more people understood the process and the fantastic results that can be achieved, there would be a lot less people settling for a style that doesn't reflect their style, fit them properly or do justice to the special occasion it is intended for. I hope this has been informative and not too 'ranty'. I'm always open to questions and comments so please feel free to get in touch. Tel: 01383 514182 Email: deanna@dresarstudio.co.uk

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