Monday 25 April 2011

Working with knitted/stretchy fabrics

Hi, 


Laurie from my sewing class asked me for some pointers on working with stretch/knitted fabrics so I've compiled a little list. 
Hope this helps!
Any questions at all, just let me know? 







There are many different weights/types of knitted fabrics. Here's a very brief overview:
Single knit: Single knit fabrics are made from a single layer of thread loops. This forms a distinct right and wrong side to the fabric. Single knits are generally light to medium weight and very stretchy

Double knit fabrics are made by interlocking two layers single knit thread loops simultaneously. The resulting fabric looks virtually the same on both sides. Double knits are generally medium to heavy weight, sturdy fabrics with minimal stretch.

Most of the really stretchy knits include some synthetic fibre content to give the fabric strength and good "˜rebound' after it has been stretched. Knits are available in 100% cotton and 100% synthetic fibres, and many blends in-between.

Preparation work:

Cutting out stretch fabric can be tricky as it is so easy to stretch it out. I recommend laying out a sheet of tissue paper under the fabric and pinning onto that. It helps add a layer of stability and makes cutting much easier.

Make sure you follow the grain line (parallel to the selvage/fold line) on your pattern to make sure the stretch is going to be in the right direction. This will make sewing the pieces much nicer.

When cutting, make sure you use super sharp scissors too as the fabric can drag or be stretched with a blunt pair.

Sewing:

When sewing a stretch fabric it's important to use a stretch ball point needle in your sewing machine rather than a regular 'sharp' needle. Ball point needles have a rounded tip which allows the needle slide in between the 'loops' of the fabric (and stops cutting/fraying of the fibres)

Use a polyester thread rather than a cotton thread as there is more stretch in synthetic fibres and will work with the fabric better.









Have a play about with some scraps of your fabric to get the best stitch length. I suggest trying a medium length straight stitch or a narrow zig zag. The bonus of the zig zag is that there is more 'give' and this will allow your seams to stretch a bit when you are wearing the garment.



You can buy a special presser foot called a 'walking foot'. This isn't essential for sewing but can give more uniform results.

Make sure you keep the edges of the your pieces even as you are sewing them . I find it helpful to pin across the fabric and stitch over the pins. This stops your 2 layers from moving around and prevents one layer being stretched more than the other when sewing.

Take your time with stretch fabrics. Try to keep your pieces on the table (rather than hanging off the edge) the less pressure you put on the fabric the more likely you are to sew it well!



If you have access to an overlocker, this is a great way to sew stretch fabrics. Follow the advice from above about preparing your pieces and maybe even think about hand tacking your seams before you sew them (then you don't have to worry about removing pins as you go)

Good luck, don't be scared, give it a go!

Wednesday 20 April 2011

A moving story...

Dresar Studio is Moving!

Well, almost a year after Dresar Studio was established, it is almost time for us to wave Bon Voyage to our first office at Liberty Business Centre in Dalgety Bay and move on to pastures new.
Dresar Studio will now be making it's home in the lovely (energy efficiant, apparently) village of Crossgates, in Fife.
For those of you who dont know the village, this is the link ot the google map:
Yikes! Long link...
For those of you who do know the village, I'm at the traffic lights (there's only one set, it's a small village) next to the Hair and Beauty shop, Wax and Relax.

If you are going to be sat-navving your way out to see us: the full address is:

Dresar Studio
8 Main St
Crossgates
Fife
KY4 8AJ

So, that's the where taken care of. Now all I have to do is:
Get a good sign maker (easier said than done)
Get a custom made cutting/sewing area made by a joiner who will not require me to sell my home, hair and several organs.
Get a painter to do the outside (I don't think my slap dash painting method will quite cut it here)
Decorate (the fun bit)
Make enough stock for the new Ready To Wear selection that will be available to buy in store
Fix up, take care and upcycle the vintage stock that will also be available in the shop
Develop a new and exciting range of sewing workshops and courses for all ages and abilites
Organise and host a fabulous Grand Opening Party.

All by the end of May. Better get cracking! 

I'm so excited to be, not only back in my home town, but also watching Dresar Studio grow from strength to strength. When I cast my mind back to this time last year, I can't believe how much things have changed. It's been a tough mountain to climb, full of financial and social sacrifice, but I can say with my hand of my heart it has been the best decision I've ever made. 
Since I'm getting all emotional, I should also take a moment to thank my friends and family who have provided unwavering support, in particular, my Mum and my boyfriend, Steph. It would have been literally impossible to have done this without you guys.
I can't wait to see you all at the party! More details on that to follow. 
Big love, see you soon
Deanna

Sunday 17 April 2011

Must. Blog. Better.

I endeavour to keep a better account of the goings on of Dresar Studio. As most of you know, I am moving from my studio into my very own shop. I have so many decisions to make and things to do that I have been forgetting to do the fun stuff. So! From now on, I promise to keep you all updated (and keep a journal for myself) of this amazing time in my life.

the camera that my lovely boyfriend, Steph, got for me for Christmas will help.

I've had a terrible cold this week but it's given me lots of time to browse the net for nice new (and old) things for the shop. I discovered an amazing antiques warehouse just outside of Auchtermuchty. They have an EBay shop called Abacus Antiques where I got this.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ViewItem&item=110662274366&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_2663wt_689
I plan to re-cover it with something pretty. As soon as I have a minute, I'll be off to find some lovely upholstery fabric.... Will post photos ASAP.

Well, that's all for now, really just wanted to check in and pledge to be better.

My 2 studio sewing classes are now in full swing and the ladies (and one guy) have all started on their projects. So exciting. Will start a gallery of all of their work.

Night night (sniff sniff)

Back soon.